Axolotl

Mating

If eggs are required for injections, it is recommended to set up mating in the afternoon (3-4 pm),

1. Action in the mating database must be taken first: tanaka(\\storage.imp.ac.at\groups) -> Organisms -> Axolotl -> Mating History Vienna full list
2. Preparation of the mating tank: Choose a clean tank and check the water temperature (15-16C) at the display of the water supply.
3. The stock tanks with the two mating partners are put on a trolley and moved to the mating tank area.
4. Each animal is taken out of the tank with a net.
5. The transponder should be checked with the handheld scanner while the animals are in the net. The reader just responds, when it is close to the animal.
6. The animals are put into the mating tank. (Start with the male)
7. The handwritten ID sticker should be moved from the stock tanks to the mating tanks.
8. The water supply needs to be stopped by pulling up on the inlet valve until you see a yellow strip.
9. 10-15 clean plastic leaves are put into the mating tank, swimming below the surface.
10. A lid is placed on top of the mating tank.
11. The empty stock tanks are labeled with purple tape and date.
12. The empty stock tanks go back to their stock position.
13. Poster walls are placed in front of the mating area, to protect the animals.
14. Axolotls don’t need to be fed during the mating.
15. Control after 24h, if spermatophores are visible, after 48h if eggs are visible.
16. Successful mating: use a bucket with tap water to put the plastic leaves in. If you want to grow the animals up, collect the eggs into a white square box and put them on the metal shelf. Not successful mating: maximal mating time should not be more than one week, otherwise animals need to be fed again.
17. Animals plus ID sticker are put back to the stock tanks. (Please make a check on the purple tape, if the mating was successful.)
18. Cleaning of mating tank and leaves: rinse the leaves carefully with tap water and put them back. Re-start circulation in the mating tank and label it with a sticker PLEASE CLEAN, then the animal caretakers take over.
19. Results must be reported in the database.

Feeding

Artemia (Brine shrimp eggs)

Brine shrimp eggs are metabolically inactive and can remain in total stasis for two years while in dry oxygen-free conditions, even at temperatures below freezing. This characteristic is called cryptobiosis meaning "hidden life" (also called diapause). While in cryptobiosis, brine shrimp eggs can survive temperatures of liquid air (−190 °C or −310.0 °F) and a small percentage can survive above boiling temperature (105 °C or 221 °F) for up to two hours.

Once placed in brine (salt) water, the cyst-like eggs hatch within a few hours. The nauplii, or larvae, are less than 0.5 mm in length when they first hatch. Brine shrimp have a biological life cycle of one year, during which they grow to a mature length of around one centimeter on average. This short life span, along with other characteristics such as their ability to remain dormant for long periods, has made them invaluable in scientific research, including space experiments. This ability has also enabled the use of a hybrid of brine shrimp, bred to grow larger and live longer, as Sea-Monkeys.

Artemia Hatching Preparation: Protocol for 15 Ltr.

Switch on the bubbler.
Take the warm water from the tap and fill it into the container, meanwhile add 325 ml volume of salt (Red Sea Coral pro Salt), when the 15 Ltr. container is filled up the salt should be dissolved already.
Switch on the heating. And make sure that the light on the top is on ☺ Add 50-60 ml full of dried artemia (Stored at 40C) to this.

Hatching preparation

• The following protocol is considered for 15 l solution.
• Switch on the bubbler.
• Take the warm water from the tap and fill it into the container, meanwhile add 325 ml volume of salt (Red Sea Coral pro Salt), when the 15 Ltr. container is filled up the salt should be dissolved already.
• Switch on the heating. And make sure that the light on the top is on.
• Add 50-60 ml full of dried artemia (Stored at 40C) to this.

Keep it like this for 2 days with aeration. And >200 Lux of light.
Usually they hatch within few hours but It is good to keep for 2 days to achieve a good hatching.
During these two days temperature can be 18°-20°C.
Make sure hatching container is not getting clogged during these two days.

Interesting observations

Below you can find the list of observations along with the name of the person who did the observation.

Person	Description	Date